Morocco Feb 28
Greetings
Went to Kinetra this weekend to meet my Moroccan maternal grandmother. She's blind and we speak little of the same language, but we managed to communicate in terms of touch and food (she'd hand me some nuts and dates and tell me "mange"--eat!) Lots of kids, I assume some variety of cousins or another. Only saw the residential part of Kinetra--I'm told there is a center that has a boulevard like Rabat does, and that we'll see that next time. One of the main highlights according to my mother is that everything is cheaper there. She pointed this out as we walked through the souk (marketplace). Lots of rain lately. It comes in spurts--not the long showers we get in Colorado. During lunch today it seriously poured for about 2 minutes then stopped abruptly. I don't know if this is typical or Africa, or our specific climate, or what. Don't have much to say today. We had real tagine (served in a ceramic cooking dish with a cone-shaped lid) for the first time yesterday. We had it again today because it was so good. Usually our tagines are made in a pressure cooker, I guess because it's faster. My mother touts the fact that the food stays hotter in the traditional cookware. This has the adverse effect of burning my fingers in the sauce (we eat with our hands, or rather, with a piece of bread used to scoop the food). The taste is well worth the pain, though. I realized that I haven't received much news from any of you lately. Let me know what's going on, even if it's as simple as "school sucks" or "I learned to juggle."
Much love,
Greta
Morocco Feb 23
AAARGH!! I had written an email and something happened and it's all erased. So I'll try again and please pardon me if it's rushed.
Belly dancer spotted in tourist restaurant in Fes. Also Moroccan folk version of belly dancer (Shikhat). Looking forward to learning more about Berber dance because it makes Morroco seem more like Africa (only 1 percent of Moroccans identify primarily as African, to give you an idea of the seperation between Northern and sub-Saharan Africa). No talk of caves in Fes, Maureen; either they're deceiving us or the caves are somewhere else. *wink* It was nice to get away from my family for a while, but I am starting to get accustomed to them. It's easier now that I've let myself stop worrying all the time about how I come across.
Notes learned from Arabic class: Allaah (God) is part of many common phrases in Arabic-speaking countries, so even the non-faithful might say "bismallaah" before eating or "hemdulillaah" when asked how they are. This is good to know. To Mama: "Oom" is mother; "oomee" is "my mother." In Moroccan Arabic, mother is something like "muht" which reminds me of "mook." To Sallie: the letter that makes an m sound is called "miim." We finally finished the majority of the alphabet, so we tried to write our names today. There is no "g" in Arabic, so I either have to be "Jreeta" or use one of the fake letters that's been introduced to represent a "g" sound in words not of Arabic origin. Kind of like "k" in Spanish.
The weather here actually warmed up during our weekend trip, which was ironic because my mother was very concerned about how cold it was in Fes. It rained a few days ago. Now it's back to about average, though it gets cold at night. Feels about like Colorado in the fall. No snow, of course. I've had a bad cold for about 5 days now; most of it's gone except the runny nose. All the students are passing colds around, so it's nothing out of the ordinary, but it's still no fun.
Before the computer erased my email, I was very excited that the radio in the cyber was playing "It's Raining Men." I had to laugh about that.
This Friday I'm going to meet my grandmother, who lives in Kinetra. I hope for the best.
I had something else to say, but it's been erased and I've forgotten it. My apologies.
Hope everyon's doing well
Much love,
Greta (Jreeta)
Morocco Feb. 21
Salam
Just returned from a weekend trip to Fes, with stops in Meknes, Volubilis, and Moulay Idriss on the way. Volubilis ("oleander") is the site of ancient Roman ruins, and Dan will be pleased to know I took lots of pictures. Can't send them yet (or any photos for that matter), but I might try once they're off my camera. Fes was intimidating...a non-native needs a guide to avoid getting lost, so outside of our guided tour, we mostly stuck to the hotel, which everyone but me saw as an excuse to party loudly. I was peeved, to say the least; Islamic countries are not the place for that, and I was quite through with looking like a bunch of stupid American college students, no matter how valid that image might be; being the nerd I am, I did Arabic homework in my room. But enough complaining. Highlights of Fes included looms, traditional herbal remedies, the tannery (leather goods), lots of donkeys, tiles/pottery/mosaics being made, and gorgeous archetecture, as usual. In Moulay Idriss we visited a traditional olive press (for extracting the oil). All cities had beautiful mosques, two of which we were allowed to enter--a rare opportunity for non-Muslims. It felt a little strange actually...like we were defacing it...I guess the Islamic mentality has really gotten into my head. I have five minutes left within the 8-dirham period here, so I'll have to elaborate on the trip later, or read you my journal when I get home. We discussed Moroccan pop music in class today; I'm very excited about the local underground Hip Hop, as well as the folk music; I'll have to ask my brothers about these genres. On a related topic, the cyber is playing 90s dance music, which amuses me greatly. Bad spacing is due to sticky keyboard. Better than the slow connection on the other computer though.
To York--Chris told me you might sublease this summer, so if you still need someone, let me know by email, because I'm interested. I also told Jenn this, so pardon me if you get the message twice.
Much love,
Greta
Morocco Feb 17
Not much to say in this one...just wanted to let people know I recovered from my emotional distress. Arabic is starting to make sense, especially as we learn the alphabet. Considering ISP (Independent Study Project) topics on Moroccan youth, or possibly marriage rituals, but I'm not sure exactly what I'll do yet. Family is appearing more religious--not sure why this is only becoming apparent now. My dad and I got into a religious discussion which amounted to "God commands all. It is true?" "Well, in a sense..." "It is true! God commands all!" I decided not to push the issue at that moment. Fathers here are not to be reckoned with. My 13 year old sister is also fairly religious. She and my father are the only ones I've seen pray, which may just be coincidence. They have a special rug for the purpose, which is rolled up in between uses so it stays clean (important for Islamic prayer). Coffee is delicious here, at least to me. I never drink it in the US, but here it equals milk and sugar with a bit of actual coffee in it. Everything in Morocco has lots of sugar--one student brought jello and it wasn't sweet enough for her family. Anyway, I should go. We're seeing a movie this afternoon (probably American dubbed into French). So long for now.
Much love
Greta
RE: Morocco Feb 11th
I find myself at the cyber again only because I need to take care of some business online. Since I'm here I'll respond to Mo's questions (below). Khalil is doing better, but still coughs often, due to a chronic condition. I don't know where his father is, strangely, and I'm afraid to ask because it might be a touchy subject; if they want to talk about it, they will; that's how it works here I guess. He isn't missing out too much, since he has so many people around (my brothers, sisters, parents) who love him. No one gave me a valentine, but Penny (a girl in the group) wished everyone a Happy Valentines Day. Anna, another student, had her 21st birthday today--not quite as big a deal here as in the States, but she's still going out for dinner. Shane, regarding your comment about Soap Operas and crappy TV, both are rampant here. Egyptian soap operas rule the airwaves during the day, and Indian movies are commonly aired...although those might just be my family's videos, I'm not sure. For anyone interested, my cell phone number is 073 88 45 93. Should you wish to spend a lot of money calling me from the United States, you will need to dial 011, then 212, then drop the first 0 of my number and continue as normal. Unless we make prior plans or there is an emergency, I don't expect anyone in the States to call me.
Much Love,
Greta
Maureen vanCamp
wrote:
Hello Greeta!
Thanks for responding to my many questions. It sounds like you are living with the privileged to have your choice of toilets and your own room! Does your host family get paid from the University of Colorado for having you as a guest? I would assume so.
I was delighted to learn they know about Valentines Day. That surprises me, altho' Christmas does not. What did you get to do for Valentines, anything special? I took Cris & Mike out for breakfast. We so enjoy getting out of the office to discuss some sensitive agenda items and share a meal.
I hope you have recovered from your crying episodes. I know it is the best release and I am sure your host family is concerned. It has to be difficult to communicate but I know it will get easier once you learn more of the language and become more comfortable. Please know we are thinking of you! Fell free to communicate with us any time you want!
How is Kahlil? I hope he is doing better. It would be extremely difficult if something happened to him. Is the dad part of his life or nonexistent? Hopefully he knows his dad.
The students have their hearts of candy today so hopefully they remember their loved one today too! I hope you received a valentine, we missed not having you here! If you did not, please know we thought about you. I am wearing a t-shirt with candy hearts on it to match the gift! I found it at a thrift shop over the weekend.
I will keep this short as I am constantly on the run. It has been busy last week and it appears it will be busy again this week!
MO
Morocco Feb 13 Supplement
Sorry--I forgot to respond to some questions. Regarding my family's religion: It's actually kind of strange, because I'm not sure if they pray or not. I've never seen them do it so if they do, it must be in a special place. They say bsmallah before they eat, which is how Muslims say grace, but only occasionally (they do it when there's company, for instance). Regarding classes, I have Arabic in the morning Monday thru Friday. We've been studying Darija (colloquial Moroccan Arabic) but now we will begin fus'ha (classical Arabic), which is what everyone learns at school. Classical Arabic is a step below what the Quran is written in. In the afternoon, we will have two alternating seminars: Field Study Seminar(FSS) and Culture/Society Seminar (CSS). Not sure of the exact schedule but that's the overall plan. Ok, now I'm going home. Maybe dinner will be ready soon, so I won't have to worry my mom by not eating.
Take care, everyone.
Greta
Morocco Feb 13
Hullo
This was going to be short because I had to pee and I though there was no bathroom here. As it turns out, there is a bathroom and I used it, so now the letter can be leisurely. It was even western with toilet paper, but there was no hand soap, only powdered laundrey detergent (it was sufficient). I just realized I talk about bathrooms in every email, but it's truly an experience when they're totally different everywhere you go, and none of them are like I'm used to...the things you take for granted.
First order of business, I have a Moroccan cell phone now . Unfortunately I'm dumb and I didn't bring it to the cyber with me so I don't know the number. I'll send it to some people in the next email, so if you want it you should tell me so. Keep in mind that it is long distance to call it from the States (International Long Distance), so it might not be very useful. The main point is that my other cell phone number will be deactivated temporarily, so don't use it until I get home.
Second order of business, if you're jealous of my travels (I've gotten a couple of emails expressing this)be reminded that there are disadvantages as well. Apart from diarrea and nausea, which wasn't that bad, it's quite taxing psychologically; I had to cry today because I was so tired of not being able to talk to anyone...I feel really isolated in my house sometimes...I'm glad some of the family speak French but it's very troubling for me not to be completely understood, and that's exactly what happens all the time. There are things I wish I could say to people and I don't know how to say them in French or Arabic and they're too complicated to say in signs or pictures. For example, we (my brother, cousins and I) were watching American music videos and one of them was Eminem. One of the cousins asked why Eminem was always conflicting with black people and I tried to explain in French that black people are traditionally at a social disadvantage in America and that some of them feel that rap music is their accomplishment and white people shouldn't steal it (I don't want to sound racist; this was the simplest thing I could say with my limited French). I'm not sure if he understood me or not; he said he did but since I didn't understand all he said afterwards it was frustrating; it would have made quite an interesting conversation if only we spoke more of the same language; complex sociology doesn't translate well through someone with only a few years of French. In any case, the inability to be understood and all the differences in lifestyle and on top of it a headache was just too much for me today. We went to the Hammam this morning, which is essentially a sauna for bathing, and the heat gave me a headache. When I got home I wanted to take a nap so I watched a movie with my brother and then went my room to sleep. My mom came in after about 15 minutes and was really worried about me and I started crying because I didn't have the energy to explain to her that I felt sick and didn't want to eat and that it was cold and I just wanted to be left alone. It's rude to refuse food here, but I really just didn't feel like eating anything. Anyway, crying made her more worried about me and then I had to explain why I was crying and for some reason it didn't make sense to her. Finally, she made me eat something and the man who is building our roof translated what I was saying from English to Arabic, which was very helpful, but I still just wanted to get away for a while. Therefore, I am here at the cyber, which is my readiest link to everything I left behind.
But enough of this; I'm sure I'll feel better tomorrow when I can talk to other students and give them my new phone number so I'm not stuck in my house all the time.
In happier news, I went to the beach today with my brother. It's absolutely gorgeous. I have pictures which I will show to everyone when I can. We collected pretty rocks and shells. I told him we would go out again tonight. When I went to take a nap and my mom came in, he also came in and said "I thought we were going out?" and I had to explain that I had a headache. Then I felt bad for breaking our plans, even though I really didn't feel like going anywhere at that moment, which is the other reason I cried. He left at some point after I was crying, so I didn't get a chance to apologize. In any case my vicious cycle of crying will end now that I've related it to people who can understand exactly what I'm saying. Again I say, tomorrow will be better.
Anyone with a taste for cheesy movies should search out "Disco Dancer." Not only was it made in the 70's with bad special effects, but it's from India so it's really silly.
Happy Valentines Day to everyone (it's tomorrow, but I probably won't talk to you before then).
Sylvia and Tabitha, I sent you birthday cards a while ago but they'll almost certainly arrive late.
I'm going to go home and maybe Tarik will be there so I can apologize for the misunderstanding. I'll be doing a lot of that for the next few months.
Much love,
Greta
Morocco Feb 11th
Greetings people fuh Amereeka,
I've adopted a new cyber cafe (which actually isn't much of a cafe, so I guess it's just a cyber) which is closer to my house. It's more amicable, with post cards and candy for sale, and Arabic music always playing; the other was very hidden and a little shady. I guess I'll start this email by addresing some of Maureen's questions.
My house has two toilets: one Western and one Turkish (squat style). I usually use the Western only because I tend to pee on my feet in the Turkish; this morning, though, I used the Turkish and managed to aim correctly, so I can use either now.
I don't share a bedroom, surprisingly. They have two huge rooms to either side of the center area (indoor coutryard-type thing) and I have one of them all to myself, which I wasn't expecting. Sharing a room is quite common, though--most rooms are multipurpose, like the living room/bedroom/TV room/dining room which is across the way from my room. My father and my brother Abdellah sell shoes in the Medina for a living. My sister Samira also sells shoes, only at a different store downtown. I know my sister Wafaa and my brother Tarik have jobs, but I don't know what they are. Abdellah is looking for another job right now--one that pays more.
The maid is an interesting situation--unlike the rest of my family, she speaks absolutely no French, so all our communication is through signs and single words. If I understood her correctly, she is 15 years old, though she looks older. It's interesting, because my little sisters appear younger than their actual age. Sophia (the maid) and I have conversations (limited, of course) in the morning while I eat breakfast. She asked me if I would be her friend I think, and I told her of course, which made her very happy. She says not to tell Mom or Dad, though; I guess they wouldn't be pleased.
The 2-year-old is named Mohammed Khalil (or Khalid, I can't tell which). He has bad asthma and apparently he's been especially sick since Sunday. His mom (my sister) was very worried last night because he had a fever. They took him to the doctor this morning who gave him a shot. He coughed up a bunch of phlegm and was better (all of this is from my mom, in French, so I don't know everything). In any case it was a little awkward for me last night...I wanted to say something but I don't know the word for a lot of things. I could understand pieces of what they were saying in Arabic (they speak French to me, not each other) and I think it was something like 'if it is God's will, he will get better' and also something about '5, but right now he is only 2.' Needless to say, the situation was a little grim.
Ah yes, Valentines Day. Since Maureen mentioned it, they do know about it here, except my brother Abdellah calls it Happy Valentines instead of Valentines Day. He asked what Americans do for Valentines (actually he asked what we do in New York, and I had to explain that I'm not from New York), so I told him we give flowers and candy to our husband/wife/boyfriend/etc. and we go out for dinner and all that. He said, 'Ah yes, I like this Happy Valentines.' They also know about Christmas, except the children seem to understand Santa Claus ('Pere Noel') better than the holiday itself. Also, it's not a seasonal thing I guess, because they have Santa on their wall right now and I definitely heard Christmas music in the house.
So now for August's questions:
I assume they sell batteries since they sell camera equipment; however, I brought a lot of batteries so hopefully they will last me the whole semester. I don't know whether the batteries are the same here; I haven't looked. Crazy smells I have encountered. I think I'm getting used to some of it, but there are things like fish and garbage that just aren't all that pleasant. I feel sorry for my colleague Jessica--there is a bum who sleeps next to their house, so it stinks by the door.
The men only bother us because they bother everyone (trying to get a date, usually--you have to meet people on the street because there aren't parties and bars like in the US), but especially because it's obvious that we are foreigners (we're white). I don't live out in the country; the Medina is in the city, it's just the old part instead of the modern addition. We're in walking distance of the Center where classes are.
I can check email as often as I want right now, I just have to pay for it. Much later we'll be in the mountains, but for now email is available.
Oranges and olives are two things that are grown in Morocco, among other things. My family does not grow them. Again, we live in the city.
Sorry this is long--it's been a while since I wrote last. Time for class now.
Love to my loved ones
Greta
wrote:
Hello Greta,
Wow! You are having some experiences you will never have again. It is good you are open to the survival game as you will have some challenges that will be most humbling and rewarding.
It is very good you have learned survival Arabic and to use the toilet! Both come in handy on a daily basis. It is interesting they already use the water twice, once to wash and once to flush! Americans are very wussy and we are the only nation that feels we have to shower daily. No other European, Asian, etc. people feel it is necessary and their skin is as nice as ours! I assume your hotel had regular toilets! You will have strong ankles and knees after this trip!
The exercise of leaving you and having you find your way home was interesting and necessary. Thank God for the Atlantic, eh?
I am a an advocate of "sink or swim" learning as it is speedy and the learning from mistakes you as an individual make, are invaluable. When I took this job that was the theory of my boss and I learned a lot very fast! I am sure you are more comfortable already in finding your way around. Landmarks are very important!!
Your host family sounds so interesting. Do you share a bedroom? What does the father do as his vocation? How old is the maid? I am sure all of them will take care of you and learn to love you like the mother especially, loved the other student she hosted. You will grow to love the maid and I am afraid, you might become spoiled.
I certainly approve of your name change!!! I almost wrote your name on a valentine for next week when I realized you were not going to be here! Would you believe I found a t-shirt that matches the little heart candy with all the sayings!!! You never know what you will find in a thrift store! Everyone is getting a little box of heart candy so I will pass them out in style! Good luck explaining Valentines Day in Arabic!
Your travels sound so interesting, educational and fun, Greta. Thank you for e-mailing us and keeping us posted. I continually post your e-mails on the Communication Log so we are all traveling and learning vicariously through you. (The pressure is on...).
Bye for now and thanks for keeping in touch!
MO
Hey, glad you like those cd's, are you able to useyour cd player? do they have stores with batteries?crazy arabic batteries?walking through the medina and market area placelocale zone sounds like fun. i bet you get all sortsof crazy smells.what was that bit about the men? are they upset thatyour not covered up or just that youre a foreigner orsomething?so, are you living with your family in thecity, or are you commuting into it from some morerural area? are they farmers or something? if so, whatdoes one farm in morrocco?are you going to be able to check your emailregularly, or should i just write that letter?love, august
Morocco Feb 7
Hello to all-
I accidentally miscalculated something when I last wrote--1 dirham is not 25 cents, but rather 12 cents, and the internet cafe costs 10 dirhams an hour, which is about 1 dollar and 20 cents.
In other more important news...
Saturday we did a drop-off, which is an unconventional tradition where the people in charge take us on a bus and drop each of us off at a different location around the city. We must then find our way back to the Center for Cross Cultural Learning (our school) while also making observations related to a particular theme; this is all an assignment. In the unlikely event that we are truly and hopelessly lost, we have cab fare on hand from the program. However, I think only one person used their cab fare this time. Methods of navigation predominantly involved landmarks (this is how I find my way EVERYWHERE) or simply asking directions if you could find someone who spoke your language (which is usually French or English if you are lucky). When initially dropped off, I knew the general direction I should go; at some point this became less clear, since the lack of through streets forced me to change course. After a long period of intense disorientation, my sense of direction was restored when I spotted the Atlantic ocean. I then asked someone which way to the Medina (the old city) and from there it was all recognition of landmarks: a pink sweatsuit in a store window; a fruit market; a butcher shop with a cow's and sheep's head on the sign; and finally the Baab El Alou--our gate in the old city wall. My theme was "Men Women and Children" and I saw a lot of them. Unlike the Medina, the men in the drop off neighborhood were fairly indifferent to my presence; normally they make (usually mild) comments and attempt to catch the attention of women in the group. Children wear school uniforms, I noticed. For the girls these are smocks worn over the clothing in a single school color.
Sunday I moved in with my host family. Not everyone was home at once, so I met people at different times: first my brother Abdellah who is my age and speaks some English and lots of French; then my brother Tarik who is a few years older; I also met my father which is good because some people's host fathers are never around. My mother and I had breakfast with my older sisters Samira and Waafaa (which sounds like Wah Fah uh) and Samira's 2 year old son. Breakfast was yummy Moroccan pancakes. In the afternoon I played with my younger sisters Meryem and Khalija and the maid Sophia. I discovered that if pronounced the American way, my name means something like body lice, so I've taken note to say it differently. I have lots of other stories but right now I'm late getting home so they'll have to wait.
Till next time
Love to all who I love
Greta(Greeta in Arabic accent)
Moroccan highlights Feb. 4
Hello again from Maghreb (aka Morocco aka magareeb or something like that in Arabic)Today a lot of helpful and difficult things came to pass. We learned our first Arabic words, which they've deemed Survival Arabic because it's things like Hello and What is Your Name and Thank You (I've used that one a lot already). Mostly though I'm still relying on French to communicate with people, which has made me realize I'm very slow at French and have forgotten a lot of my vocabulary.There are 20 something of us in the group, to answer Mama's question. All are students in the US except one from Croatia. One of them is also originally from Sierra Leon, as I learned in today's Arabic lesson (one phrase we learned was ). Arabic is hard, as many people are aware. It's hard because everything has subtle nuances of sound to hear (we haven't learned to write it yet, but they have a habit of writing things in Arabic lettering on the board despite this). We broke into pairs and threes to share rooms at the hotel, so I'm with a girl named Lynn who also happens to be a theatre major, though we haven't discussed theatre at all so far (lots else to discuss instead). We walked around the neighborhood of our hotel yesterday, and I bought a fake Rolex for 100 drihams (12 dollars) because I broke my other watch in New York.Besides our scant Arabic we also learned how to survive Moroccan home life: things like how the toilets work and dinner etiquette. Apparently most of the toilets are Turkish toilets, meaning that there is nothing to sit on--simply a hole to do your business in and two places to put your feet so you can keep them out of the way (there are also special sandals you wear in case of splashback). You have to flush it yourself with a bucket of water; often there isn't toilet paper so unless you bring your own like a wussy American you have to clean yourself with the water before you flush--hence the the unclean left hand--people only eat with their right hand for this reason. Regarding Mama's bath of Morocco-ness comment: it reminds me of a related subject, which is the Turkish baths. These are public and very popular. You're only supposed to wear a bottom covering (like a bikini) and you go once a week (if you can afford it) and scrub yourself to get really clean, since Moroccans don't usually get a full shower every day--just the ablutions for prayer five times daily. So that's the true Morocco bath.The most emotionally/mentally straining experience was meeting some of the members of our host families. This happened sooner than I expected even though we won't move in until Sunday. Some people's brothers and sisters came along; mine was just the mother, her youngest daughter who is seven, and her older daughter's small son, who is quite a character. I will also have two other sisters and two brothers, one of whom speaks some english. I was glad the mother spoke French, even though I couldn't understand everything she said, nor did she catch all of my imperfectly phrased questions. I did catch something about pancakes, but the most moving part (which someone translated for me) was a story about another student she had hosted; she became so close that she cried when the girl left--and she was only there for 20 days! She even began crying when the story was retold. I tried to comfort her...I feel a little pressure to live up to that experience, but I know she will be a good mother to me.In any case my time in the internet cafe is running out if I wish to stay under 1 dirham (not bad for a whole hour--about a quarter in dollars). This French keyboard is more helpful than the American one since the letters actually correspond to what is typed--fewer typos.To those I love, I love you.Greta P.S. belowAugust, your CDs are awesome. I listened to one on the New York Plane and one on the Paris plane; I slept on the Morocco plane. By some twist of fate I mis-set my alarm clock and was woken up at exactly Midnight in Rabat...eerie, huh?
Arrived Safely
Hello everyone!
After a somewhat hellish (only in length) flight, i'm in a hotel in Rabat. The internet cafe around the block has a weird keyboard, so if there are punctuation errors that is why. I hope everyone is well. I will be at the Hotel Splendid (not TOO much of a misnomer) until Feb 8th; then i join my host family. Everything is beautiful here and the weather is wonderful; cool but pleasant. A little cautious around the men just because of cultural things. It will take me a day or so to relax I think. Need sleep. Miss home but I hope not for too long (just anxiety right now). Talk to you later
Greta
P.S. Mama, Daddy, Sal, and August- I love you
