Gouda's Cheesewheel

Morocco Feb 11th

Greetings people fuh Amereeka,

I've adopted a new cyber cafe (which actually isn't much of a cafe, so I guess it's just a cyber) which is closer to my house. It's more amicable, with post cards and candy for sale, and Arabic music always playing; the other was very hidden and a little shady. I guess I'll start this email by addresing some of Maureen's questions.

My house has two toilets: one Western and one Turkish (squat style). I usually use the Western only because I tend to pee on my feet in the Turkish; this morning, though, I used the Turkish and managed to aim correctly, so I can use either now.

I don't share a bedroom, surprisingly. They have two huge rooms to either side of the center area (indoor coutryard-type thing) and I have one of them all to myself, which I wasn't expecting. Sharing a room is quite common, though--most rooms are multipurpose, like the living room/bedroom/TV room/dining room which is across the way from my room. My father and my brother Abdellah sell shoes in the Medina for a living. My sister Samira also sells shoes, only at a different store downtown. I know my sister Wafaa and my brother Tarik have jobs, but I don't know what they are. Abdellah is looking for another job right now--one that pays more.

The maid is an interesting situation--unlike the rest of my family, she speaks absolutely no French, so all our communication is through signs and single words. If I understood her correctly, she is 15 years old, though she looks older. It's interesting, because my little sisters appear younger than their actual age. Sophia (the maid) and I have conversations (limited, of course) in the morning while I eat breakfast. She asked me if I would be her friend I think, and I told her of course, which made her very happy. She says not to tell Mom or Dad, though; I guess they wouldn't be pleased.
The 2-year-old is named Mohammed Khalil (or Khalid, I can't tell which). He has bad asthma and apparently he's been especially sick since Sunday. His mom (my sister) was very worried last night because he had a fever. They took him to the doctor this morning who gave him a shot. He coughed up a bunch of phlegm and was better (all of this is from my mom, in French, so I don't know everything). In any case it was a little awkward for me last night...I wanted to say something but I don't know the word for a lot of things. I could understand pieces of what they were saying in Arabic (they speak French to me, not each other) and I think it was something like 'if it is God's will, he will get better' and also something about '5, but right now he is only 2.' Needless to say, the situation was a little grim.

Ah yes, Valentines Day. Since Maureen mentioned it, they do know about it here, except my brother Abdellah calls it Happy Valentines instead of Valentines Day. He asked what Americans do for Valentines (actually he asked what we do in New York, and I had to explain that I'm not from New York), so I told him we give flowers and candy to our husband/wife/boyfriend/etc. and we go out for dinner and all that. He said, 'Ah yes, I like this Happy Valentines.' They also know about Christmas, except the children seem to understand Santa Claus ('Pere Noel') better than the holiday itself. Also, it's not a seasonal thing I guess, because they have Santa on their wall right now and I definitely heard Christmas music in the house.

So now for August's questions:
I assume they sell batteries since they sell camera equipment; however, I brought a lot of batteries so hopefully they will last me the whole semester. I don't know whether the batteries are the same here; I haven't looked. Crazy smells I have encountered. I think I'm getting used to some of it, but there are things like fish and garbage that just aren't all that pleasant. I feel sorry for my colleague Jessica--there is a bum who sleeps next to their house, so it stinks by the door.

The men only bother us because they bother everyone (trying to get a date, usually--you have to meet people on the street because there aren't parties and bars like in the US), but especially because it's obvious that we are foreigners (we're white). I don't live out in the country; the Medina is in the city, it's just the old part instead of the modern addition. We're in walking distance of the Center where classes are.

I can check email as often as I want right now, I just have to pay for it. Much later we'll be in the mountains, but for now email is available.

Oranges and olives are two things that are grown in Morocco, among other things. My family does not grow them. Again, we live in the city.

Sorry this is long--it's been a while since I wrote last. Time for class now.

Love to my loved ones

Greta

wrote:
Hello Greta,

Wow! You are having some experiences you will never have again. It is good you are open to the survival game as you will have some challenges that will be most humbling and rewarding.

It is very good you have learned survival Arabic and to use the toilet! Both come in handy on a daily basis. It is interesting they already use the water twice, once to wash and once to flush! Americans are very wussy and we are the only nation that feels we have to shower daily. No other European, Asian, etc. people feel it is necessary and their skin is as nice as ours! I assume your hotel had regular toilets! You will have strong ankles and knees after this trip!

The exercise of leaving you and having you find your way home was interesting and necessary. Thank God for the Atlantic, eh?
I am a an advocate of "sink or swim" learning as it is speedy and the learning from mistakes you as an individual make, are invaluable. When I took this job that was the theory of my boss and I learned a lot very fast! I am sure you are more comfortable already in finding your way around. Landmarks are very important!!

Your host family sounds so interesting. Do you share a bedroom? What does the father do as his vocation? How old is the maid? I am sure all of them will take care of you and learn to love you like the mother especially, loved the other student she hosted. You will grow to love the maid and I am afraid, you might become spoiled.

I certainly approve of your name change!!! I almost wrote your name on a valentine for next week when I realized you were not going to be here! Would you believe I found a t-shirt that matches the little heart candy with all the sayings!!! You never know what you will find in a thrift store! Everyone is getting a little box of heart candy so I will pass them out in style! Good luck explaining Valentines Day in Arabic!

Your travels sound so interesting, educational and fun, Greta. Thank you for e-mailing us and keeping us posted. I continually post your e-mails on the Communication Log so we are all traveling and learning vicariously through you. (The pressure is on...).

Bye for now and thanks for keeping in touch!

MO

Hey, glad you like those cd's, are you able to useyour cd player? do they have stores with batteries?crazy arabic batteries?walking through the medina and market area placelocale zone sounds like fun. i bet you get all sortsof crazy smells.what was that bit about the men? are they upset thatyour not covered up or just that youre a foreigner orsomething?so, are you living with your family in thecity, or are you commuting into it from some morerural area? are they farmers or something? if so, whatdoes one farm in morrocco?are you going to be able to check your emailregularly, or should i just write that letter?love, august

posted by Greta @ 8:33 PM