Gouda's Cheesewheel

Morocco March 21

Hello to all!
Returned from the Southern Excursion last night. Too much to talk about, so I'll give a general overview: Started with a long driving day (on our notorious bus) and got all the way to Ouarzazat, where we stayed the night (but didn't get to see the town, really). They film a lot of movies there (Gladiator is one of them, and I know there are others but I've forgotten). Next was Zagora, where we had lunch and I swam in a very cold pool and with two crazy French guys in a speedo and fully clothed, respectively. I really could have done without the crazy French guys myself. From there we rode camels into the desert, where a few people were disappointed by the small stature of the dunes (the big dunes are in a different town which the excursion did not visit this year). In any case I had fun, although I understand why people don't generally use camels for riding--just transport; they aren't very fast and even with blankets and a saddle you end up pretty sore in the crotch. Spent the night in the desert and joined Berber dances and talked to the nomads who ran the camp there. The following day we camelled back and headed to Nqob, a small town with a Kasbah and not much else. Lots of small children who had become accustomed to asking tourists for candy and pens, and thus followed us around. The few who remained throughout the town showed us what they called "the garden"--a palm grove visible from the edge of town. After a night in Nqob with mishaps of roasted bananas, we were on our way to Marrakesh, which is when I wrote a lot of postcards that some of you will be receiving. Marrakesh, I've decided, is where a lot of the expectations and stereotypes about Morocco must have originated. Not only is it a huge tourist town, but all those things I thought I hadn't seen yet turned up in the south of Morocco. Marrakesh is unlike any other city, and even the Moroccans will tell you that. There's a square full of impromptu performers and barbecues trying to win your business and orange juice carts and henna ladies and...I could go on. In the souk, you HAVE to bargain. Jenn and Kristin, this is where I got your birthday gifts so I hope you appreciate the sheer effort at least. There is a private garden which was a nice escape from the heat and the craziness. However, the best escape was Essouira, a lovely little seaside town which has also gained a lot of attention from foreigners. The men trying to win my attention would say hello in German, Italian, and English in addition to the usual French. After some deliberation I decided to stay the weekend there with a bunch of the group. Despite the hellishly hot (long)(12 dollar) trainride back, it was worth it. Not only did I get to swim in the ocean (with amazing waves) for the first time in a long while, but I made the acquaintance of some fun locals, which helped to counteract the feeling of being just another tourist. Hassan, my primary escourt in the town, is one of many carpenters in the area who work in thuya wood. He makes instruments for Gnaoua, the music style associated with the region (think African guys in twirly tassel hats); he showed me a superbly decorated guinbri (his own work of course), which is a three-stringed instrument like a guitar. I think I may have to invest in a CD before I leave Morocco if only for memories.

So that's my week in a nutshell. I have stories but they will wait for later. Mama, I got your letter today (or possibly last week but I wasn't here). I like the drawings. Springtime is finally taking shape here. It warmed up a lot while we were in the South, but Rabat seems to have gotten some of it too. My sister Meryem is looking forward to the beach when it's yet warmer. The train station in Marrakesh smelled entirely of orange blossoms, which was sublime for the 5 minutes we were there. Duane, I will address your email next time, as my hour is up (we have talked about it in class some). Love to you all.

Greta

posted by Greta @ 10:29 AM